Winemaker champagne from Laherte Frères – Not your typical champagne!
Noemie CausseMassive selection, the city’s parcel purity meet cuvées, a direct and gentle pressing of the grapes, fermentation and aging of the base wines in barriques and a minimal dosage ... All this makes the champagnes from Laherte Frères so special: each one has its own character, that of the terroir of the respective parcel.
Also special: The preference for Pinot Meunier, which is not used so often in the champagnes that we have had in our range so far. In Germany, Pinot Meunier is also known as Schwarz-Riesling. That means we are dealing with Blancs de Noirs here.
The Domaine – a family history
The Domaine was founded in 1889, more than a hundred years ago, by Jean‑Baptiste Laherte. He planted the first vineyards around the village of Chavost, today's Chavot. This is located south of Épernay, the "capital" of Champagne. Over generations, the domaine has grown to just over 11 hectares of vineyards, spread over various sub-appellations in the region.
Today, the sixth and seventh generations of the Laherte family work hand in hand to produce wines and later champagnes that are like them: pure, sincere and authentic. Experience meets youthful energy in this beautiful cross-generational collaboration - both driven by a shared passion and the goal of continuing and improving the legacy they left behind.
With Aurélien Laherte, who embodies the seventh generation, a fresh wind has been blowing through the winery for several years. He joined in 2005 to work with his father Thierry and uncle Christian, the eponymous brothers (Frères Laherte). According to some famous critics, it's only a matter of time before it makes a name for itself internationally as one of the best champagne producers. He is young, passionate and ambitious but humble and down to earth. And the wines he makes with his father and uncle are simply spectacular. We think so too!
The philosophy – respect for tradition in harmony with nature
It is important to the Lahertes to preserve their tradition and they are very aware of how much they owe to the soil on which they live. That is why they cultivate their vineyards with predominantly biodynamic methods. It is their way of appreciating the treasures their ancestral land bestows on them.
The development of the plants is carefully monitored throughout the year and every effort is made to promote and maintain their health. According to the Lahertes, making good wine is all about empathy and listening carefully. It is work that involves and demands all the senses: observe, feel, taste, hear and feel.
Of course, this dedication is also reflected in the brand's champagnes, which express the characteristics of each plot and its terroir. That is the declared aim of the Lahertes, which is why they call their champagne “Champagne de terroir”.
Today, 80% of the Domaine's wines are fermented and aged in oak barrels. This is an outstanding feature, because the wine is normally fermented in large old wooden barrels, concrete or stainless steel tanks. Fermentation in oak barrels, on the other hand, is only practiced by a few winegrowers, because you have to be very careful here so that the wine does not get an overly dominant woody aroma that blows you away rather than inspires you. Here the Lahertes show great sensitivity. A minimal dosage also ensures that their champagnes are special.
The terroirs – a multi-faceted mosaic
Under the surface of Champagne lies a veritable mosaic of micro-terroirs with a bedrock of chalk and limestone, essential for the finesse of great wines.
The 11 hectares of vineyards are spread over three very different terroirs: the Côteaux sud d'Épernay (the slopes south of Épernay), the Côte des Blancs and the Vallée de la Marne (the Marne Valley).
Since 2011, the grapes from another four hectares have also been bought from friendly winegrowers who follow the same philosophy as the Lahertes and show the same care. These are on the Montagne de Reims, in the Marne Valley and the Côte des Blancs. This diversity of terroirs is preserved in the respective singularity of the wines and champagnes of Laherte Frères.
Because that is also part of respecting the terroir: cultivating the differences, emphasizing the individual characteristics and allowing the earth to express itself.
The champagnes – “not your typical champagne”
Massive selection, plot purity of the cuvées, an immediate and gentle pressing of the grapes, fermentation and aging of the base wines in barriques and a minimal dosage. All of this makes the champagnes from Laherte Frères so special: each one has its own unique character that reflects the terroir of the respective parcel.
Three lines:
There are three lines at Laherte Frères:
- the Cuvées Ultratradition
- the Cuvées Singulières & Originales
- the cuvées Coeur de Terroir
The cuvées ultra edition
The Cuvées Ultratradition represent the entire know-how of the House of Laherte Frères. They are champagne wines that focus on the essentials and whose authentic character can only be achieved through the search for optimal and constant quality.
The Cuvées Singulières & Originales
The Cuvées Singulières & Originales are authentic and bold wines with very little dosage, combining aromatic complexity and elegant minerality. Wines through which the winemaker reveals his sensitivity and parts of his personality.
The cuvées Coeur de Terroir
The cuvées Coeur de Terroir are single plot or mixed cuvées, which are characterized by an even more idiosyncratic character. Here we find, for example, Rosés de Saignée champagne. This is where what the current Lahertes Frères et Fils bring together finds expression: reflection on old ways of working and a fresh spirit of discovery.
Our offer for you:
Ultratradition Brut, €39.90/bottle – from the Cuvées Ultratradition line
- Grape varieties: 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir from vines around 30 years old. 40% of which are reserve wines from previous vintages stored in barriques.
- Terroir: Vallée de la Marne and Côteaux Sud d'Epernay
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Vinification:
Harvest of the grapes at optimal maturity, traditional pressing
Alcoholic fermentation in tanks, in barrels and barriques
Malolactic fermentation partially carried out
Aging on fine lees for 6 months - Dosage: Dégorgement à la volée (warm disgorging). 7 to 8 g/l.
Tasting notes and points
"Pleasantly spicy and seductive with fine bubbles and intense aromas of black raspberries, dried apricots, orange blossoms, fleur de sel and crystalline honey. Mineral in the finish.” (Wine Spectator: 92 / 100)
“The Brut Ultradition lets the Meunier come into its own in all its sour fruitiness. An honest and direct aperitif champagne with lively bubbles.” (La Revue des Vin de France 15/20).
“Bright flavor profile with citrus notes. Medium-bodied, energetic and absolutely harmonious from the first sip.” (Antonio Galloni, Vinous : 92/100)
Jancis Robinson: 16/20
Our conclusion:
"A champagne for all occasions with a beautiful golden robe. Great fruit without being sweet, incredibly creamy, wonderfully balanced. A wonderful classic champagne cuvée that stays fresh for a very long time. The carbon dioxide in the opened bottle was just as lively the next day as it was right after it was opened!” (Anaïs Causse and Jens Gärtner)
Blanc de Blanc Brut Nature Non Dosé, €46.00/bottle – from the Cuvée Singulières & Originales line
This Blanc de Blancs Nature comes from the most beautiful parcels of the Domaine and lets the purity and minerality of the Chardonnay shine. Pure, clear and light.
- Grape varieties: 100% Chardonnay, average age of the vines: 35 years. 50% of which are reserve wines stored in barriques.
- Terroir: Chavot and Épernay. Fine clay and soft chalk.
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Vinification:
Harvest of the grapes at optimal maturity, traditional pressing
Alcoholic fermentation in small barrels and barriques. Regular batonnage.
Malolactic fermentation partially carried out
Aging on fine lees for 6 months - Dosage: dégorgement à la volée (warm disgorging). Non-metered.
Tasting Notes and Points:
"Perfectly balanced for a non-dosed champagne. The only partial malolactic fermentation ensures a balanced acidity. Pleasantly deep fruitiness with notes of apple, citrus fruits, dried mango and pickled ginger. An outstanding expression of its terroir.” (Peter Leem)
"In this daring blend of Chardonnay from the Coteaux Sud d'Épernay we find the natural passion typical of the Domaine, while at the same time having a supple patina that provides a refined finish." (La Revue du Vin de France 16 / 20)
“Stunning from the first moment: citrus, mineral and floral notes galore in this super-expressive, finely-cut Blanc de Blancs. Crystalline and energetic. The Blanc de Blancs has so much to offer.” (Antonio Galloni – Vinous : 95 /100)
Tyson Stelzer: 91/100
“The reserve wines, aged 50% in barriques, give this cuvée wonderful, very ripe aromas. Incredibly creamy and round and with zero dosage!” (Anaïs Causse and Jens Gärtner)
Rosé de Meunier, €48.00/bottle – from the Cuvée Singulières & Originales line
An extremely interesting rosé champagne made from 100% Pinot Meunier, in which the grapes from old Meunier vines are aged partly as red wine and partly as white wine before they come together in the cuvée.
Because only 30% of the grapes are macerated and then different production methods are used, a perfect interplay of fruit, complexity, vinosity and freshness is created. Elegant and charming.
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Grape varieties: 100% Meunier, beautifully ripe from vines with an average age of 30 years (of which 50% reserve wines)
30% expanded as rosé
10% expanded as red wine
60% developed as a white wine (40% of which are reserve wines from previous vintages stored in barriques) - Terroir: Vallee de la Marne. Chavot. Deep clay soils.
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Vinification:
Harvest of the grapes at optimal maturity, traditional pressing
Alcoholic fermentation in tanks, in barrels and barriques
Malolactic fermentation partially carried out
Aging on fine lees for 6 months - Dosage: dégorgement à la volée (warm disgorging). 2.5 g/l.
Tasting Notes and Points:
“Crystal clear in the glass and with a nice tension, this champagne is bursting at the seams with personality. The low dosage of 2.5 grams per liter gives it a certain severity. Sometimes a slightly vegetative (but not unpleasant) element comes through. A cuvée with a lot of aging potential, where there will be a lot to admire in the future." (Antonio Galloni 94 / 100)
“This Extra Brut Rosé de Meunier with its gorgeous pink robe is based on fully ripe Pinot Meunier grapes growing on calcareous clay soils rich in flint. 60% were made as Blanc de Blancs, 30% as Rosé de macération and 10% as red wine - all in barriques and Fudern.
The bouquet is intensely aromatic, clear, fresh and spicy with notes of currants, raspberries and cherries. Full-bodied and fruity, at the same time lively, fresh, dry and with good structure on the palate. A pure, long-lasting, beautifully vinous and elegant rosé with a long, aromatic finish and lasting expression.
When still young, it shows beautiful red wine characteristics and is already a great pleasure. However, he will improve over time.” (Tyson Stelzer)
Les Beaudiers. Rosé de Saignée Meunier, €65.00/bottle – from the Les Cuvées Coeur de Terroir line
For saignée rosés, the grapes (in this case Pinot Meunier) are harvested when they have reached the optimum maturity for red wine production. They are then pressed and filled into tanks together with the skin and seeds. After a short time of 2 to 48 hours, part of the juice is drained or bled off. Hence the name (saigner = French to bleed). This portion, which becomes the saignée rosé, now ferments alone.
This process ensures that Saignée rosés are particularly strong and intense in colour.
Complex and structured.
The Pinot Meunier used for this rosé grows in the village of "Les Beaudiers" halfway up the Côtes de Chavot. These old plots are worked very carefully and by hand. The vines are kept short to limit the yield and give the grapes more air. A terroir wine that highlights the sumptuous complexity and aromatic richness of Pinot Meunier, complemented by a fabulous limestone freshness.
- Grape Varieties: 100% Pinot Meunier
- Terroir: Terroir de Chavot. Old plots planted in 1953, 1958 and 1965. North-East orientation.
- Soil: The top soil layer is flat and consists of clay and silt rock with pebbles, shale and flint. The subsoil consists of chalk cliffs from the Ypresian.
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Vinification:
Harvest at optimum maturity with strict selection
Destemming and subsequent maceration of 12 to 14 hours
Slow and spontaneous fermentation in barriques
No malolactic fermentation
Aging on fine lees for 6 months with regular batonnage until spring - Dosage: dégorgement à la volée (warm disgorging). 0 to 4.5 g/l.
Tasting Notes and Points:
"An impressively expressive rosé of medium pomegranate carmine red with aromas of watermelon, strawberries and rose petals. The whole thing is rounded off by a tight acidity and a fine, creamy pearl. In the finish, the notes of red fruits are present for a long time.” (Tyson Stelzer 93/100)
"Offers impressive depth, density and richness - essentially everything a saignée rosé should. A beautiful champagne in every way.” (Antonio Galloni 95/100)
“Clear nose, creamy and fresh, with notes of yeast, red fruits, citrus, hazelnut, flowers and spices. On the palate: Nice freshness of citrus fruits and juicy fruits, with an elegant perlage. Long-lasting, silky and lively, delicate, profound, elegant. Still young, but already very lively, round, cedar notes and a firm and juicy finish.” (wine plus)
Revue des vins de France: 15/20
Our conclusion:
"An extraordinary and incredibly powerful champagne that can easily accompany an entire meal. Definitely something for the advanced, as it doesn't necessarily live up to the expectations one has of a champagne. Its taste is very atypical and very particular, with a pronounced beautiful fruitiness without being sweet.” (Anaïs Causse and Jens Gärtner)
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Laherte Frères - Grands Vins de Champagne - 3 rue des jardins - 51530 Chavot - France | champagne-laherte.com
